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roaming the world and enjoying the scenery...

Pictures from Kerala

Kathakali dancer in Fort Kochi, KeralaFinally got the Kerala trip webpages all finished up and posted. The last big trip of the year always seems to get rushed in at the end of everything. With all the stuff going on lately - the end of school and getting ready for summer - they kept getting put off…

But now they’re on - just in time for Susan’s birthday (happy birthday, honey!!).

Honestly, with all the tragedy going on right now in this part of the world - from cyclones in Burma to earthquakes in China to bombs in India - it just feels good to be able to write about a pleasant vacation and include some happy pictures. So enjoy, and take a load off for a few minutes!

A Mumbai poem

We had a Kiara roof coffeehouse evening last Saturday night called CAF-ASB (pronounced Café – S – B). People shared food and showed off their talents in the arts: poetry recitation, singing, music, painting, etc. It was a beautiful evening accented by flickering candles, providing the perfect setting for such an artsy get together.

One of our fellow teachers here, Russell Bell, is a former actor and stand-up comic from the LA area (his blog about life in India is here). He had written a piece of ‘performance poetry’ about Mumbai that he shared with us, and it was so well done that I asked him if I could post it here. While it is much more entertaining “live,” the words and images contained in it still give a good introduction to life here. Of course, if you’ve been to India, some of these will make more sense to you, but in any case, enjoy “Mumbai” by Russell Bell:

Rickshaw
sida
Right jaao
Vos

Mera nam
Kaise ho
Tik hai
Ha

Is it Namaste or Namaskar
Donnavad or Shukria
Did he say yes or did he say no?
(head wobble)

Shilpa Shetty
Shah Ruh Kahn
Amitabh, he’s the Don
Sanjay Dutt, he carried a gun
Aishwarya’s hot!

Where do you walk when the sidewalk’s full?
Which goes first, bus or bull?
I stepped in something, that’s not cool

Mmmm Mumbai

Haj Ali, dhobi Ghat,
Juhu beach, god it’s hot
The big brick buildings seen at Fort
Were put there by the Raj

Chor Bazaar, Harry’s Place
Colaba Hawkers in your face
The British built India Gate
But a Parsi built the Taj

Chapatti
Roti
Murg masala
nan

Lassi
pani
durawalla
chai

Durga had ten arms,
Krishna loved his curd,
Ganesh’s Dad cut off his head,
At least that’s what I heard

Horn please, honk okay
You can almost taste the air today?
If traffic stops, just drive on the other side.

Where can I go to walk my goat?
Will I ever be able to wear my coat?
Something crunchy just went down my throat

Mmmm Mumbai

Cricket,
Wicket,
Sixer,
Over,
Run

I saw another three-legged dog lying in the sun.

The city, it’s chaotic,
A collection of colors and sounds,
It’s a concert of Life
That can be heard from all around
The instruments, the people,
Are divided by language, caste, and faith,
But the music, it’s all written
In one city - one place

Mumbai

Morning clouds in Mumbai

Clouds over the Arabian SeaThe sun has been coming up earlier and earlier these days, as we move out of winter (or what passed as winter here) into summer. This morning, however, it actually seemed darker than it had in days past. Looking out the window, we figured out what it was - there were CLOUDS in the sky!!

Now, this might not seem like such a big deal, but there have basically been none since last September or October. Of course, I’m not counting clouds of vehicle exhaust, or clouds of smoke from burning garbage, or clouds of industrial pollution, or clouds of ravens feasting on refuse - I’m talking about fluffy white possibly-precipitation-loaded atmospheric phenomena. They mean the monsoons are on the way. While I’m not necessarily a huge fan of constant downpour and flooding streets, the rains are welcomed in the part of the world as a rejuvenating shot in the arm and much needed dust-settler.

And since we’ll be out of India for much of the rain time, I guess that makes the prospect easier to take. So stir up the cirrostratus and let the cumulus accumulate!

Raising kids internationally is interesting

I had a fascinating afternoon with some girls from school yesterday. We are hosting a middle school volleyball tournament this weekend, and part of the activity schedule was to go to a mall and go bowling. When the big bus showed up to take everyone, there wasn’t enough room for all the players, so I took a small jeep-like private vehicle. Five girls came with me, 4 from a visiting school and 1 from our school.

The conversations on the way down were eye-opening, to say the least. While not really eavesdropping, I was listening in from time to time, and was surprised by the conversations that took place. They started off with the typical “Where are you from?” questions, with the girls coming from the USA and Korea. Things started to turn when one of them continued, “But my friends tell me I’m not really from the United States. I consider myself more of a world citizen.” That led them in to the “Where have you lived?” portion of the conversation, which is a very normal course of events when these kids have spent their lives living out of their home countries.

They talked volleyball for a little while (since they were, after all here for a volleyball tournament!), but then moved right back into descriptions of places they’d been, people they knew in various schools around the world (and finding they had some acquaintances in Egypt in common!), and weird experiences while traveling (riding on trains, sitting on tops of buses, life in an Asian mega-city).

What I found fascinating, listening in from afar, was the complete lack of discussion or seeming interest in those things that one would expect middle school students to talk about: music, movies, TV shows, actors, gossip, etc. The one time they mentioned movies was in the context of, “I was watching this movie, and even though my Hindi isn’t really all that good I could understand a lot of it.”

I know that I shouldn’t assign too much importance to a single conversation that I heard, but as a dad of children who are going to be brought up in this way, I was entranced. Here are 11 to 14 year olds who have very different perspective of ‘shared culture.’ They don’t have a common set of entertainment (music and video) experiences, and so they have to build their social engagements around what they have in common: the world. What a different way to build a middle school experience – instead of giggling over the latest celebrity gossip and pop music craze, the girls were laughing about the crazy places they’d seen around the world! Makes me pretty excited to be raising a couple of kids in this environment…

And by the way - our ASB teams took 2nd and 3rd in the tournament! Pretty great for a program in its second year!!

ASB Swim Gala

Breck at the ASB Swim GalaAlea at the ASB Swim GalaAs the year winds down, nothing around the school seems to slow down. The weeks and weekends are full of sports, student awards, socials, speeches, and all sorts of other “S” worded events.

Let’s see, today is Wednesday. Today there is volleyball practice and Susan’s after school activity, Tuesday were schoolwide meetings and a speech by an ‘expert on expats,’ Monday was the middle school student achievement awards, Sunday was the farewell party for the elementary school principal, Saturday was volleyball practice, broken computer fixing day, a middle school dance, and the cinco de mayo party…

And Friday was the ASB Swim Gala. One of the benefits of attending a school in a hot climated area is the accessibility of a pool. We’ll use the little one at our building sometimes, and come to the bigger one at school as well. The kids get year round access to it, and swimming is part of the PE curriculum, so they are turning into true water babies. So in celebration of all the water centric activities at the school, Friday was dedicated (in the elementary school) to a swim gala, where the kids rotated among events such as relay races, slaloms, obstacle courses, and ring diving.

Alea and Breck were super participants (and were wiped out when they got home!). It was a lot of fun for the parents to attend, stand in the shade, and watch the kids show off all the great moves they’d learned.

Superfight!

Superfight!

This story is about 2 friends playing ball. But the ball becomes a bomb. One of the friends said that the other friend made it a bomb, so they had a sword fight and got knocked out by a giant ball from the sky.

Poverty

Children, shaved for lice, pooping in the streetOne of the toughest things for the kids to get used to is the poverty. Mumbai is an enormous city, and India is still a very poor country, and people from all over head to the big metropolis in the hopes of building a better life. Unfortunately for them, most end up in the sort of filth and squalor pictured here, where children with their heads shaved for lice squat in the street, surrounded by garbage, to relieve themselves. This was taken out our bus window one (typical) day heading home from school.

There are quite a lot of beggars throughout the city (duh), and they do seem to spot us fairly easily (duh) and head right over to us (duh). Breck has been having more of a difficult time dealing with them than Alea. There is one particular corner on the way home from school at which we get our windows knocked on quite often, and he dreads going to it. “I hope there are no beggars today” has become a refrain from him when we leave school. He asks us why they come asking for money, and I hope our pitiful explanations are adequate.

His class has been spending some time recently going into some of the roots of child labor and poverty, but this seems to upset him even more (there have been a couple of nights that he’s asked to sleep with us because of some of the things he has seen in class). It is such a pervasive fact of life here, wrapped up with so many ‘tinderbox’ issues ranging from alcohol to infanticide to abuse, that it is difficult to judge where to start and where to stop when trying to explain something that Alea and Breck see every day but have no context for understanding.

Breck has become more adept at using his ignoring skills when beggars approach him, but unfortunately this translates into him sometimes brusquely walking past other people who are genuinely interested in just saying ‘hi.’ It is interesting to remember that there are a lot of people in this country who have never spoken to a ‘white person,’ and many who have never seen on in real life. We don’t want him to ignore all Indians, but he is such a sensitive boy that it is a very fine line for us to walk in terms of helping him judge when to engage and when to ignore. This is such a ‘teachable moment’ for us while we live here; I just hope we are helping him understand things in a way that won’t haunt him for life.

(And just for some background information, we were told before coming - and have had it reinforced while here - that most of the street beggars are basically “pimped out” to local thugs who take the money they manage to earn. We’ve been encouraged to give food to them (but nothing that can be resold, because it will be and the money find its way into the boss’s pockets) and to contribute money to organizations that can better place it in the hands of those who are truly the needy.)

Onions in the ears and watermelons on the head

We are in a foreign land filled with mystery and wonder. There is much to learn here.

Take for example the fact that, according to our landlady, people who are working in the fields in the hot weather will put onions in their ears and wrap them into place, along with an extra piece on the top of the head, to help guard against heatstroke. Well who knew?? She went on to explain that, should this fail in preventing someone from fainting in the fields, the close-at-hand onions were ready to be used as a resuscitation device simply by squeezing a few drops into the passed out person’s nostrils. Double duty.

(Interestingly, when I asked my students about this, they had never heard of such a thing, but they did confirm that what Susan heard as “shock” for the name of the summer season was basically correct. It turns out that in Konkani, a language spoken in Goa, the phrase for hot weather is actually shaa ckho. Bypassing the obvious “shock and awe,” I call it “shock and achoo” myself).

But, on the bus ride in to school, I asked a teacher who is married to an Indian about this, and she said “Oh that’s nothing - the Parsis who moved to India from Iran used to wear hollowed-out watermelons on their heads to keep cool when working in the fields. Their community was quite famous for doing this; but of course their are no Parsis working as field hands any more, they own all the land now!”

When you think about people who have to wear onions wrapped in their turbans or watermelon rinds on their heads as the only way for them to survive in the heat as they go about their daily work, it makes our lives seem oh-so-easy!!

1 fish, 2 falcons, and 3 puppies

Who says Mumbai has no wildlife? In addition to the rats we’ve seen running along the sidewalks (for which there are official city jobs dedicated to killing them) and the raven/crows that eat everything the rats miss, Bombay is home to tons of different kinds of animals. Our experiences this weekend centered around 3 specific types.

On Saturday morning, I had volleyball practice and a school meeting, so Susan was at home with the kids and decided to go swimming. There really is no way to describe the fish experience any better than in Susan’s own (edited) words:

At 1:30 today, the kids and I went to the Kiara pool after notifying the guards in the morning that we would be using it. The pool was in miserable shape: debris floating on the top, leaves littering the bottom, and refuse I don’t care to identify swirling in the depths. The kids immediately jumped in and began to clear the pool. Leaves and sticks and bugs accumulated in a pile as they pulled things up from below. A scream shattered our industry as Breck dragged up a dead, decayed fish. He flung it to the side and scrambled out of the pool. I hauled Alea out and went over to the guard ( who had been enjoying watching our labor for the past ten minutes) and wanted to know how a dead fish could have landed in the pool. He raised his hand to the sky and said, “It’s the trees.”

Breck and the puppiesNot a great way to greet the weekend.

Sunday morning dawned as perhaps a better day, but then two mating falcons began screeching at each other in the tree branch right outside our window. Normally I like watching and listening to these large birds of prey, but not at 5:30 on a Sunday morning!

And finally, that afternoon, we were ‘invited’ to adopt some neighborhood puppies. We have a tiny apartment, and I don’t want a dog ripping our stuff apart, and Susan is very responsible about wanting to care for an animal, so the NO answer was easy to give. But Breck still had a ball rolling around with three of the 5 that are available, even though he got a little nip from them.

So there are our animal stories from this weekend - which was definitely a “2 rather than 3″ sort of weekend for us. Only 35 more days of school until summer!

A Perfectly Poetic Potty

Now, the biggest religion in India is Hinduism. And people who practice that faith are Hindus. And the ‘unifying’ language of India is Hindi. So there really is nothing wrong with a company adopting a prefix that refers back to the glory of the region, right?

Hindware toilet

Well, I’m sorry, but I do have to chuckle every time I walk into a bathroom and get ready to use a Hindware brand toilet, especially considering what part of the body usually rests on it!!

News, Indian style

I love the news that runs in the papers here. Not necessarily because it is fun to read or ‘uplifting’ in any way, but because the headlines and stories serve as a constant reminder that Toto is no longer in Kansas. Just as a taste, here are a couple of snippets from recent articles (besides the perennial favorite How to convert urine into drinking water):

These gangsters knew around six languages, and spoke in all of them to mislead the investigation. When thrashing did not work, police decided to play quizmasters for several hours…. “When we asked them about their identification, they gave us a new name. We gave them a good beating, but in vain,” said GM Patel, inspector of the Gujurat University police station.

  • Compensation for family planning hiked - I was just impressed to find out that India pays people to have vasectomies. Get your male tubes tied and you earn 1,500 rupees - just under $40.
  • And two that show the other side of ‘family planning’ here in India: After Sixth Girl, Mother Kills Commits Suicide in Rajkot and and Humiliated, Mother Kills Daughters - a sad commentary on life in India, where women are still held (murdeously) responsible for the gender of their children.
  • The previous articles (which are not uncommon in the news) make one wonder about Foetus Slips Out of Moving Train, Safe about a baby who was born into the toilet of a train. Keep in mind that Indian train toilets open directly onto the track, so the kid fell under the train and was left in the middle of the tracks! Of course, the more cynical might note that it was a daughter and wonder just how ‘accidental’ the incident was…
  • Third Sex Gets Official Status - but some aspects of Indian life are remarkably forward thinking, including the recognition of the ‘otherly gendered’ as the PC term has it.
  • And of course, when all else fails, you can always Ask the Sexpert at the Mumbai Times!

Carry on bags in India

Cabin baggage…must all have name tags on them. We’ve found this out as we’ve traveled around the country, and it is kind of a fun little routine for us. When you check in, you have to fill out a name tag and put it on your bag. Then when you go through security (which involves a metal detector and a pat-down search - all done in a separate line and behind a curtained divider for the women), the guard stamps your tag. When you leave the waiting room for the bus to take you to the airplane stairs (jetways are unknown here), another guard checks to make sure you have a stamp. If not, back to security for you!

We actually had a fuss made over us the other day when Breck’s legos went through the x-ray machine. The guards seemed pretty concerned about them and inspected the whole pack pretty carefully. Susan is convinced that they just wanted to stop and play with them! This may not be too far from the truth, as the legos are certainly an attention-getter wherever we go.

In any case, the Festival of Nations page is now updated

Back from Kerala, to a horn-free Mumbai (almost)

The family in KeralaWe have returned from the sunny south of India, after 10 days of backwater boat rides and the four s’s - sun, sand, salt, and seafood!!

Our trip was a great success; 3 nights in Fort Cochin, a ride through the famed backwaters and an overnight in Alleppey, 8 hours on a ferry down the inland coast to (our one ratty hotel in) Kollum, 2 nights in bamboo huts at Varkala beach, and the final 3 nights at a place with a pool(!) in Kovalam with a flight out of Thiruvananthapuram (luckily also known by its old name of just Trivandrum!). Whew!

Of course, these names mean nothing now, but we just wanted y’all to know that we are back safe and sound. We’ll obviously be posting stories and pictures on the webpage and linking there from here.

In other news of the world, today was ‘no horn day‘ here in Mumbai, and it seemed to have a mixed result. We took 2 separate rickshaws home from the airport (since we’d bought so much stuff!!), and when we got in the apartment, Susan commented that she and Alea thought the ride was much quieter than usual. Breck and I replied that we had counted all the honks on the way home, and had totaled up 98 - which is admittedly fewer than expected. So success or failure? Who knows.

I'm number 1!I do know one success, however, that is set in stone: regardless of who wins the NCAA tournament today, I have - for the first time ever in my life - won my basketball pool. By one point!

Festival of Nations, Parade of Nations, and Spring Break

Stars and Stripes Stutz family!Today is the big Parade of Nations (PON), not to be confused with yesterday’s Festival of Nations (FON). As a huge international school, we make quite a big deal over celebrating the national diversity roaming our halls. Looking at the setup statistics for the events today, there are students from 51 different countries walking the halls here out of a population of around 660!

Every year, there are performances by different groups from different countries as well as a parade that everyone participates in. On this day, we all dress up in national costumes of colors - hence the Stars and Stripes Stutz family in the picture!

The performances were really great, and - while there wasn’t time to make them into descriptive webpages - you can see some of the pictures in this folder. The webpages will get worked on in a few weeks, since…

Our spring break starts this weekend, and so we are zipping right off after school. We are heading to southern India, an area called Kerala (care’-uh-luh), where we plan on doing some sightseeing, some backwater boat riding, and some beach bumming. We won’t be back until Monday night (school starts on Tuesday April 8), so don’t look for any sort of updates until well into that week. We’ll miss No Horn Day on the 7th, but I guess we can live with that!

Have a great week (and a super April Fools Day).

Chuck Norris in India

Chuck Norris in India?Naw - just kidding. He’s not really coming to Mumbai. I really don’t keep up on the Chuckster’s schedule much these days, but apparently some of my students do. They were pretty happy to tell me a bit about him, and I admit it was pretty funny. Every so often I have to revert to middle school mentality. Teaching 11-14 year olds all day does take it’s toll!

Apparently one of the internet boats I’ve been missing lately is the popularity of Chuck Norris facts. Yes, yes, I heard all about how he supported Huckabee, and how that helped the politician out, etc, etc. But Chuck has also a large fan club across the blogosphere and in the armed forces, where he is venerated as the perfect he-man of our time.

I’ve always been partial to Schwarzenegger myself. I mean the Terminator, Commando, and Predator flicks were what was out when I was a kid. Norris was always a second rate bounty hunter type Vietnam dude. I mean - Invasion USA? Come on, who cares if the South gets invaded?! Let ‘em keep it (I was going to insert a link to one of my favorite internet sites about the south, but since it is not a kid-friendly link, I decided not to. You might speculate what the three word title of the site is. You might even guess right. But you’ll have to type them in (or google) them yourself).

In any case, thanks to the multitude of Chuck Norris facts and fan sites out there, I present my personal favorite facts about Chuck that you just might not have known:

  1. If at first you don’t succeed, you’re not Chuck Norris.
  1. Chuck Norris destroyed the periodic table, because Chuck Norris only recognizes the element of surprise.
  1. Chuck Norris knows everything there is to know - except for the definition of mercy.
  1. Chuck Norris put the fun in funeral and the laughter in manslaughter.
  1. Most people know that Descarte said, “I think, therefore I am.” What most people don’t know is that that quote continues, “…afraid of Chuck Norris.”
  1. Time waits for no man. Unless that man is Chuck Norris.
  1. He who laughs last, laughs best. But he who laughs at Chuck Norris … dies.
  1. Chuck Norris can lead a horse to water AND make it drink.
  1. Chuck Norris knows the last digit of pi.
  1. Chuck Norris was what Willis was talkin’ about.

See a few more favorites here, or just look ‘em up yourself

Easter in India, 2008

Indian Easter EggsObviously a bit different than in years past!

While some things are pretty consistent from year to year (like my NCAA brackets falling apart before the end of the second round), our holiday patterns are wonderfully varied. This year we got to experience a true mashup of cultures, as a big Hindu celebration coincided with the Easter festivities.

Check out what was going on yesterday in the previous post (Holy Holi, Batman!) and then zip on over to the webpage to see other pictures from the weekend. We were just all over the place (and with Susan being a bit under the weather as well).

After all this, time to sigh in relief. One more week  - a crazy week nonetheless with a big Festival of Nations celebration at the school - and then we are off to Kerala!!

Holy Holi, Batman!

Holi in MumbaiWhat a rookie mistake. You’d think that after 38 years of life and more than 6 months in Mumbai I would have learned my lesson.

I made the number one error that expats living in India simply cannot afford to make: I left the house without a camera. Inexcusable, especially given that I knew it was a holiday, and a holiday that would be colorful and peopleful and photographableful.

Let me explain, if not excuse.

Today is Holi, an Indian holiday that is pretty much right in line with Easter (which is tomorrow). It is not like Easter in terms of Jesus being crucified and then coming back to life, but rather in the sense that it is built on the idea of an agricultural theme: death and rebirth and all that. Holi celebrates the coming of the spring season and the ‘recoloring’ of the countryside as plants sprout and grow. To celebrate the occasion, Indians spend the morning spraying each other with colored water, throwing water balloons filled with paint, and generally turning friends, acquaintances, and strangers into walking tie-dyes.

We - being a bit worried about some of the stories we’d heard about unsafe dyes and dangerous chemicals - decided to forgo the celebrations (and actually spent the morning engaging in our own, Western, take on the idea of paint celebrating the spring - we colored Easter eggs!). But this afternoon, Breck had been invited to a birthday party, so he and I had to head out in a rickshaw to “The Club” located in a suburb north of us.

Now Breck (and Alea) have been really funny lately about Susan and me taking pictures, and that is the only possible rationalization for what I did. I had everything all set up - battery charged, card cleared, bag packed - and then, like a total fool, decided not to bring the camera along. I didn’t forget it, I just didn’t bring it.

Holi in MumbaiWe went out, and before we even got into a rick, I realized that I had made a mistake of colossal proportions. People were all over the place, simply covered head to foot in pink, blue, purple, yellow, green, silver: every color imaginable. As we made our way north, we passed motorcycles full of painted families, rickshaws jammed with smiling kids, the streets teeming with colorful Indians. They would smile and wave at Breck and me, just happy to be out and about with the fresh paint dripping everywhere. And I had gone out without a camera.

By the time we got to the club, I was literally sick to my stomach. Not only had we passed incredible sights along the way, but I knew that I was stuck at the birthday party all afternoon: everything would be over by the time we got home. Talk about a wasted opportunity - unbelievable. I called Susan and managed to convince her to go out and take some pictures. She wasn’t too excited about doing so and so only went out around the block near our house (which is not a hotbed of activity by any means). But she did get a few shots, and those are what you see here.

I am glad that she did go out, and of course she tries to soothe my self-anger with, “Oh well, you can always take pictures next year.” Unfortunately, next year Holi is on Wednesday, a work day, not Saturday. I am simply disgusted with myself for going so far against my better judgment and letting such an almost once in a lifetime opportunity slip away. If you are in India on Holi, do not under any circumstances go out without your camera. You will hate yourself in the morning.

World Water Day

World Water DayTomorrow, March 22, is World Water Day, something that we have never seen or heard of before. In India, water is a very big issue for several reasons. There are millions and millions of people in this country who don’t have access to water, rural water projects are increasingly having trouble distributing water for industry, agriculture, and environmental projects (witness what has happened in Bharatpur), and the situation with global warming and the impact on water supplies is only expected to worsen. Unfortunately, there seem to be very few steps that can be taken at this point to head off further ‘drying’ here.

How to Convert Urine into Drinking WaterThe newspaper had a full page display titled “How to Convert Urine into Drinking Water,” complete with simple step by step instructions and pictures. I think it was meant as an object lesson in which direction things are going rather than as truly practical advice, but I could be wrong. In any case, a kind of disgusting way to bring a very real problem home. I guess you could say it left a bad taste in my mouth.

Ewww…

Horn Not OK on April 7th in Mumbai

traffic1.jpgWith all the racket and traffic, the city fathers have decided that a day of quiet is just what the doctor ordered. April 7th is being orchestrated as No Horn Day in Mumbai. I’ll believe it when I see (hear) it. There is no way typical Indian drivers are going to lay off the horn - it is just too crazy to deal with cars, rickshaws, bikes, motorcycles, buses, trucks, horses, cows, dogs, pedestrians, beggars, sellers, sweepers, potholes, construction: all while driving on the wrong side of the road!!

For a sample of what the horns in India sound like, follow this link to listen. This is an .mp3 of a .wav file originally from the Free Sound Project.

Pi Day!

Of course we celebrated Pi Day this year at school and at home. Breck and Alea have been singing all the Pi Songs they can remember. For those of you who might have forgotten, March 14th - 3.14 - is Pi Day (get it?). And of course, as a middle school math teacher, I do all sorts of Pi stuff at school and it has kind of rubbed off on the kids. I let my students earn some extra credit by recording Pi songs or videos: here is a link to where I parked a few of the audio files as well as some I’d previously found on the net. We had our annual digit memorizing contest - this year our high scores were 95 and 83 - both were by 6th graders!

Breck’s Soccer TeamSaturday was a full day at school. Dave got up early to go in for middle school girls’ volleyball practice (no, he’s not playing on the team - he’s coachingthe team!). Breck’s indoor soccer season then wrapped up this weekend with a tournament that afternoon at the school. The kids played hard and stuffed themselves between games on all the food parents had brought for the pot luck dinner. Alea got to go swimming during some of the matches, as one of her friends was at school (also to watch her brother - who was on Breck’s team - play in the tournament). In the end, his team ended up with a 4th place trophy, lots of smiles all around, and some standing invitations for play dates.

We spent the rest of the weekend relaxing around the home with friends from Kiara as the temperatures start to soar. We plan on getting the pool opened up and going for a dip this afternoon. The ACs are running full time now, and we can only sweat and anticipate what April and May are going to be like!

New links added today:

Water water everywhere…

Morning bathroom breakSo in a country where the majority of people don’t have running water, most of them are used to squatting in an open field and ‘wiping’ with water. If they do have access to a toilet, it is usually a “Squatty” with two foot places and a hole in the middle with a bucket of water for playing Captain Kirk. Not too big a deal, but it took me a while to figure out why we kept seeing people walking around in the morning with water bottles in their hands.

Anyways, the problem comes when they use a “Sitty” toilet. By habit, they pass up using toilet paper and grab for the hose and a bucket or something of the sort that is usually next to the toilet. The problem is, since they usually don’t have a big porcelain bowl in the way, they are not very accurate in keeping water off the seat, wall, and floor when they spray. So whenever we use a toilet (say, in a school) that less-well-off people (say, custodians) use, we always have to contend with water everywhere. Said water is a pain - getting on clothes that are in contact with the ground - and often an unpleasant surprise - as the ‘ring’ is often damp. And because the rest of the bathroom setup is so fancy, it sometimes slips our minds to check before sitting, resulting in a wet bum and a stream of curses (I guess that’s why it is called “potty mouth”).

Anyways, another aspect of life in India!

ASB’s “Sail Away” Gala

Dave and Susan getting ready for the gala (picture by Alea)The highlight of the school’s social calendar is a huge gala dinner, dance, and PTA fundraising party. This year it was held at the Grand Hyatt hotel, and gave Dave and Susan a chance to dress up and spend a night out.

Of course, there were those who were far better dressed than Dave - tuxedos were not a rare sight at all (although the elementary school principal did look pretty resplendent in a maroon paisley patterned smoking jacket) - but none that looked better than Susan. The women came in a mix of formal gowns, slinky feathered slit-up-to-here dresses, and fancy silk and gold saris. All in all, a pretty high tone affair.

The dinner was fantastic - it was great to have meat meat meat after all India’s vegetarian fare: the lamb chops were by far Dave’s favorite, while Susan grooved on the schwarma. Some of the teachers and mothers had practiced a Bollywood dance routine that they showed off on the dance floor that was a definite highlight as well. While we didn’t score any of the the raffle picks or door prizes, we did win a silent auction for a silver necklace that Susan really liked, so now she has some new jewelry.

After whirling and twirling our way around the floor, we caught a rickshaw home - real classy, huh, in our formal outfits?! After we woke up and got the babysitter down to her home, we actually kicked back in the livingroom with a beer; it has been a long time since we’ve done that at 2:00 in the morning!

Aurangabad, Ellora, and Ajanta

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The pictures and travelogue from our most recent weekend trip are now posted. Visit the city of Aurangabad, climb to the top of the Daulatabad Fort, marvel at the mini Taj Mahal at the Bibi ka Maqbara, hike the Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain caves at Ellora (and scramble around gigantic elephant statues at the Kailasa temple there), and circle through the painted Buddhist caves at Ajanta. Great stuff…

It’s official - Mumbai is big, crowded, and dirty!

Well, I’m certainly glad someone got around to quantifying this. I was worried about just how we’d stack up against other places around the world. I’d already known that Mumbai was big - ranked 1st, 4th, 4th, or 5th in the world depending on your population definition - but not that we held claim to further honors in the pantheon of megacities.

Woman picking garbage with a dog in MumbaiForbes magazine (which utilized a Mercer 2007 Quality of Life Report), recently ranked Mumbai as the 7th dirtiest city in the world. Compared with New York City (friggin’ New York City?!!) which sits at a baseline 100, Bombay’s cleanliness index is at 38.2. Adding to (or causing?) the problem is the fact that Mumbai is the most densely populated city in the world.

Other Indian cities are listed as well, but Mumbai “wins” overall. This is really no surprise at all, as we see the junk in the air that we breathe and on the ground where we walk and in the water all around us.

It is sort of gratifying (in a really sick, backhanded way) to have an ‘authority’ say, “No, you’re not being oversensitive. It really IS that dirty where you live.” What a relief, huh?

NOTE - after originally posting this, I came across a Reader’s Digest article that confirms that Mumbai is also the least courteous city in the world. We ARE #1!!

Indian Dance

We get these little tastes of Indian culture from time to time here at the school, and today was one of those special occasions. There has been talk of a ‘famous Indian dancer’ coming to perform at ASB - her name is Malavika Sarukkai and she is lauded as one of the best of the best classical Indian dancers. There was even a performance last night: Sunday evening is a really tough time to make anything happen with a family (even ignoring the hellacious traffic here), so we gave it a pass. Luckily enough, she was scheduled to come during the school day.

We had a special schedule all day long to accommodate her performance during the last hour of school. Now, anyone who knows anything about kids is probably thinking, “What the heck is that school thinking, screwing up the whole day’s schedule and putting the kids on edge so they can sit and watch a lady dance during the last hour of school? What a recipe for disaster!” I’ll have to admit, I was thinking much the same thing, especially given how squirrelly the kids were all day long. But boy, was I wrong.

Malavika DancingMalavika came out and introduced the performance by invoking a prayer to Ganesh (whose blessings are supposed to clear all obstacles out of your way for a successful undertaking). Then, instead of dancing, she actually led the kids through a rundown of the instruments that were playing, giving each musician a brief solo, and then showed some of the basics of the dance moves. When she finally got around to dancing, the kids were raptly watching to see the foot movements and hand motions that she had described.

After every few minutes, she’d take a breather (literally) and come back to the microphone to describe her art some more. To finish the performance, she asked the audience to suggest a line of poetry that she could interpret. The first thing that leapt to my mind concerned a man from Nantuckett, but I remained discreetly silent. The stanza that made it up to her was “Two roads diverged in a yellow wood and I took the one less traveled.” I mean, it was really darn close - I sure didn’t know that it was in a yellow wood (what kind of trees are yellow, anyways?).

She proceeded to dance her way down a road not taken, coming into contact with bees and rain and flowers and animals - signified by her hands. And the kids knew exactly what she meant! She showed them sights of her working in the garden, meeting a god - all your pretty typical afternoon goings on down the back roads of India. All in all, it was a spectacular performance and a super way to round out a crazy day.